Asheville, North Carolina

Skyline Drive and the Blue Ridge Parkway

September 1, 2005 – September 19, 2005  

I am finally writing a short log on the last leg of my bicycle tour.  There was very spotty phone service on Skyline Drive and the Blue Ridge Parkway so I left my computer at Jim's in Asheville.  To be honest, it was rather nice to be disconnected from the world --- if only for 12 days.

To back up a bit:

Katrina forced the end of the Mississippi Ride at Memphis. On August 31, America by Bicycle cancelled the remainder of the tour.  Of course it was unfortunate we did not make it to New Orleans, but my disappointment was nothing compared to the suffering and devastation experienced so many others.  At that time, Memphis was on the northern perimeter of the evacuation area.  I met many people who had fled the hurricane and were trying to figure out how to proceed with their lives.

As luck would have it, among the group of riders was a resident of Asheville.  Jim Morris and his wife Pat invited me to spend my interim days with them rather than flying home to Oregon, then flying back to Virginia only 5 days later.  Asheville sits right at the foot of the Parkway and is known as the Paris of the South for its art, architecture, and music.   Jim exhausted me (I don't believe there is even one flat inch of pavement anywhere around Asheville.  Jim's driveway is so steep we had to push our bikes around the last two switchbacks!) every morning with 50+ mile rides in the local area, and both Jim and Pat kept me well fed and thoroughly entertained.  We spent time at the Folk Arts Center, toured the Biltmore Estate, and listened and danced at the weekly Bluegrass concert in the city park.  Visiting this beautiful city and riding through the nearby countryside with a "local" was an unexpected treat. 

I met Paul, the owner of Black Bear Adventures, and his father-in-law, George, early Wednesday morning, September 7, in downtown Asheville.  The three of us traveled north to Charlottesville to pick up two other riders.  The fourth participant met us in Front Royal.  It was very relaxing traveling through North Carolina and Virginia getting acquainted with the two most important men in my life --- at least for the next 10 days.  Paul would be telling me what to do and where to go, and George would be responsible for keeping me hydrated and fed.  There would be 4 riders on the Skyline portion then 4 more would join us on the Blue Ridge.  One more staff member, Paul’s friend, Mike, would join the group at the start of the Blue Ridge as well.

Overall, the ride along Skyline Drive and the Blue Ridge Parkway was the most challenging and exhilarating ride I've done.  At the same time, it was also a very relaxing ride with little traffic, astounding scenery, a great road surface, and NO CUE SHEETS!  We just had to head south.  The accommodations, food, and support were wonderful.  We even had gorgeous weather with only one day of morning rain. 

Skyline Drive winds 105 miles through the Shenandoah National Park and the Blue Ridge Parkway continues another 463 miles through the Blue Ridge, Black, and Great Smokey Mountains.  I thought the first day would be an easy 50 miles.  I couldn't have been more mistaken!  In those 52.2 miles, we climbed an incredible 7000 feet.  I was thanking Jim on every hill for whipping me into shape!  Overall, we rode 600+ miles and climbed 60,000+ feet.  I set a personal record on day 8 by climbing 10,500 feet in 85 miles.  Of course that was the only rainy day and we climbed up into even more rain on the ascent of Mt. Mitchell.  [On the chance that some of you are a little skeptical with the elevation statistics, four of us had altimeters on our cyclometers, which also kept track of the accumulated climb.  We compared the data at the end of each day and were astounded at how close our numbers were.]   Here are the statistics:

DAY    MILES   ELEVATION GAIN

   
After a final giddy hour of downhill, and the requisite pictures at the final milepost, we shuttled back to Asheville where the group dispersed to make their way home.  Pat picked me up right on time.  I spent the afternoon packing my bicycle and sorting my clothes and equipment for the trip home.  I even had time for a short nap. 

Both Jim and Pat took me to the airport early (5:30am) the following morning, September 19.  I was a little apprehensive about managing my bicycle.  This would be my first try at checking it through as “regular” luggage.  Airlines regularly charge $100 extra for a bicycle but since the suitcase is just a tiny bit larger than the size requirements, and I was hoping it wouldn’t be noticed or measured.  I had no problems --- the suitcase didn’t raise an eyebrow.  However, the trip was not without tribulation.  Just as I was going through the final security check, the officials backed everyone up, de-boarded the 4 planes on the ramp, and corralled us in a stuffy waiting room.  The Asheville airport was basically shut down with all emergency and safety doors locked and all commercial outlets closed.  We were told that there had been a "security breach".  I missed all my connecting flights and arrived home late without my luggage. 

Jon was waiting for me ready to take me home and hear about my adventures.  My luggage arrived safely later that very night.  Now the only challenge would be to sort through 8 weeks of mail and catalogues, and get ready to start my new job teaching music at Cascade Middle School in Bend.  Climbing 10,500 feet in 85 miles seemed easy by comparison!